A pictorial journey through stunning Plitvice Lakes, the crown jewel of Croatia (2-3 May 2015)

Plitvice Lakes, Croatia

The Plitvice (pronounced as plit-v-se) National Parks, accorded the UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 1979, is so awesome that it warrants nothing less than a dedicated travelogue than to be buried amongst my blog on our 9-day sojourn in Croatia.  For nature lover who enjoys hiking on nature trails, you need to accord it at least 2 days of dedicated walks.   It has a striking resemblance to the picturesque Jiuzhaigou in Sichuan, China,  in terms of the azure colours of the waters,  cascading rapids and plentiful flora and beautiful trees and plants. The lakes are renowned for its distinctive colours which change with the organism in the waters and the angle of the sunlight.

We arrived a day earlier and spent one night in Zagreb before leaving early the next morning for the 175km drive (1.5 hours) to Plitvice.  I was most impressed and surprised by several things; the excellent road condition,  exceptionally clean and free public toilets and very nice, clean and affordable accommodation (we stayed mainly in dedicated short term rental homes and only in 2 hotels).  Needless to say, almost everywhere was also free of litter and odour.

We arrived without incidence at the Parks just before noon time (6 hours behind Singapore time). As it was a Saturday morning, the car park (7 kuna/hr) was full as expected but we were still able to find unmarked parking lots in the wooded section.  However, if this were the peak Summer season (July & August), I shuddered  to think about the parking woes when some 11,000 visitors descend on the Parks every day!

Unmarked car parking area in the woods

We had a quick light lunch at Slap Buffet just inside the Park’s North Entrance (or Entrance 1) and then proceeded to buy the entrance ticket (110 kuna or about US$16.50 per adult per day) and also to pick up a walking map from the small tourist info centre opposite the ticketing booth.  A pity that on both days we were unable to sample the Croatian grilled chicken which was not ready when we were buying for lunch.

Quick lunch at Slap Buffet near Entrance 1

We also brought along the 8 walking route maps (A, B, C, E, F, H and 2 K routes) as back up.  Overall, we did not find the maps to be very clear and on several occasions had to use our own judgement in finding the lookout point, especially the most important vantage point  that offers the iconic,  panoramic frontal view of the plunging waterfalls and multi-tiered lakes separated by natural dams of travertine barriers deposited by the action of moss, algae and bacteria that grow at a rate of 1cm a year.

1-Day Park Admission Ticket which also serves as the scenic bus and electric boat ticket

We only had half a day today and the whole morning the next day to explore the Lower and Upper Lakes, which comprise a system of 16 interlinked lakes and a large forest complex.  We decided to do the Lower Lakes first, intending to cover Route A which requires about 2-3 hours of walking on foot, without the scenic bus and river boat rides.  It turned out to be a wise move, albeit longer duration of about 5 hours as we covered more than what was outlined in the map and with frequent photo stops. 

If you are hard pressed for time, I would recommend giving priority to the Lower Lakes which is much more scenic than the Upper Lakes. In fact we chanced upon 2 Singaporean girls who only had half a day for Plitvice NP and I strongly urged them to concentrate on the Lower Lakes and only if time permit, to continue with the Upper Lakes.  Regardless, it will be wise to start with the Lower Lakes especially if the weather is good as it involves walking on many nature trails and relatively hilly terrain.  But it is not a difficult hike.

The waterfalls can be seen a short distance away from Entrance 2 which we walked to from Entrance 1.  Even though it’s just a small peek from that distance, we could already hear the thunderous falls.

The waterfalls appeared very small from this distance but we could hear the thunderous roar

There are many options to explore the Parks; on dirt trail, along the lakeshore, on foot on paved roads or by the 2-car scenic bus that requires considerable driving skills on the meandering road, or by the electric boat across the lakes.  I personally prefer the hike on foot as we get to see so much more while burning off some calories.

The twin-car scenic bus requires considerable driving skills to manouvre the winding roads in the
Parks

It was a very relaxing and enjoyable long walk on boarded walkways and nature trails that hug the lakes alternating between still calm waters and roaring rapids and waterfalls of varying sizes.  We walked so close to the emerald green waters that one could readily touch the still waters or the gushing cascades.  We were very happy that though somewhat crowded, the Parks was not thronged with tourists during the shoulder season. Still, there were the occasional bottlenecks as most tourists like us could not resist stopping to capture the charming sceneries with their cameras and handphones.

The crystal clear emerald green water abounds with fishes and fowls testifying to the purity of the water

At the bend behind me the rushing waters plunge down to join the Korana River

This bears a striking resemblance to Jiuzhaigou in China

Though water is everywhere in the Parks, the overall feeling and experience of treading on the edge of the waters versus hiking and viewing from higher grounds are entirely different.  

Being close to the waters has a calming and soothing effect while being in the far distant one is overwhelmed with awe by the stupendous and stunning sights.

The largest falls in Plitvice, Veliki Slap, is 70m tall

View from the zigzag trail

Natural dam of travertine deposits due to the action of moss, algae and bacteria.  It grows at a rate of 1cm a year

View of the bottleneck where the waters plunge into the Korana River

We crossed over to a zigzag trail on the opposite side which accorded a panaromic view of the lakes and the board way which we were strolling on.  Our ultimate aim was to look for the vantage point that presents the iconic view of the multi-tiered lakes and waterfalls and though the view from this angle was picturesque, it was not the one that I was looking for.  So instead of relying on the map, we used logic to deduce where the lookout point should be located and retraced our way back to the Biggest Falls where I noticed an upward trail earlier on.  I could only hope that it will lead us to the vantage point which I noticed occasionally, a handful of people peeking from the far distance.

This trail is the toughest due to its vertical incline and many steps to overcome but the view from the top is worth the effort

View of visitors crossing the board walk constructed over the natural travertine dam, from the top of the trail next to the Biggest Waterfalls

At the top of the trail is a wooded area where we turned right and hit the paved road shortly after.  Continuing on the right side of the road, we soon saw a sign that points to the vantage point.  And there were just 2 other people there when we arrived within minutes! 

We lingered for a while to absorb the stunning view and everyone without fail posed a shot with the awesome spectacle.  After achieving our ultimate goal of the day, we were happy to leave the Parks for the day and to return the next morning for the Upper Lakes. 

Perfect, sweeping view of the emerald green lakes, the plunging curtain of falls and the various trails (zigzag trail on the left, the uphill trail on the right which leads to this vantage point, the board walks that hug both sides of the lakes and the natural travertine dam)

The short walk from the road to the lookout point was dotted with many pretty plants

On our way down to the Kozjacka Droga Buffet eatery near Lake Kozjak, we were surprised by a couple more lookout points which showed us a different perspective of where we had walked hours earlier.  There are many tables and benches for people to eat and relax.  We stopped for a break and a cuppa....

View of the frontier known as Bear's Foot

Love the refreshing leafy lush greenery that accompanied us throughout our walk down the NP

Top pix taken at the start of the hike with the view of the queue on the opposite shore of Lake Kozjak.  Bottom pix was taken 5 hours later at the pier itself and there were still people queuing to take the electric boat

The pier on Lake Kozjak

Kozjacka Droga Buffet restaurant and surrounding snacks and beverage kiosks

Though the accommodation that I booked was only 10km away from the Park Entrance, we spent almost half an hour looking for it as the housing address is not arranged in sequential order and the signage is poor.  Nevertheless, we were very pleased with the cosy place that has a kitchenette.  And as far as I was concerned, I was the happiest person for I could enjoy cooking and eating some food from home.  I am one person who cannot survive on western food for long.  My apologies to my friends who had to eat what I cooked, good or bad.

We picked up some groceries from the supermarket and was ready to do a quick pot of steamed rice with Chinese sausages and mushroom, salad  and Japanese seaweed soup with fresh button mushroom.  We also enjoyed the local wine which was very cheap (only less than 20 kuna or <S$4) but good

I used the remaining rice to cook porridge for breakfast the next morning and it was a simple fare with ready to eat preserved foods which I brought from home, such as preserved olive vegetables, fermented beancurd, Japanese miso, salted duck eggs, shallots and preserved winter cabbage

Plain porridge for breakfast with preserved foods from home, namely olive vegetables, fermented beancurd, salted duck egg, Japanese miso, shallots and preserved winter cabbage

We only had the morning left to cover the key sights in the Upper Lakes region as we had a long drive (475km)  to Dubrovnik. Though the Upper Lakes is less spectacular, it does have its own charm.  The walk in the woods was very pleasant. The various rapids and falls here are a lot smaller and further away from us.  It took us 2 hours to do a round-trip walk and this time round, we took the Scenic bus both to and from the Upper Lakes to save some precious time.  Will let the pictures do the talking……

A note on the rental car.  It is to be expected that in Europe and America, cars with automatic gear transmission are not common unlike in Asia.  To pay an extra S$1,000 for an auto car would be too extravagant.  Though all 4 of us have more than 3 decades of driving experience each, 2 of my friends were not confident in handling the manual car as they had not driven one for at least 2 decades.  Luckily there were 2 of us who could take turns to handle the 2-3 days of long distance driving over the next few days.  I enjoyed city driving more than highway driving (very monotonous and boring) while the other driver was very relaxed flying on the highway, which worked out perfectly well for us.

I wouldn’t mind revisiting Plitvice Lakes again in deep autumn (late Oct)  and spending more time hiking on the many trails.  It is not at all hard to imagine the  breathtaking colours  enveloping the Parks in vivid autumn hues of crimson red, auburn brown and shimmering gold contrasting with the green moss and grassy planes.  Coupled with a cooler climate than early May, I can hear it calling out to me for another awesome experience…….

View & Like the full album on Plitvice (1 of 2)  on Facebook (click here)


View & Like the full album on Plitvice (2 of 2)  on Facebook (click here)

http://youwanu1.blogspot.sg/2015/05/twin-cities-of-zagreb-croatia-and.html

http://youwanu1.blogspot.sg/2015/06/enjoying-dalmatian-coastal-cities-of.html

TIPS:

1)   Avoid July and August, the busiest season at the Park where 11,000 people descend on it daily.  Not only is it overcrowded, the temperature is also sizzling hot and everything is more expensive! You will not be able to walk leisurely at ease nor take good pictures with the jostling crowd. Spring has high water volume while autumn in late October will be stunning with mind-blowing autumn colours

Summer 7am – 8pm daily

Spring & Autumn – 8am – 6pm daily

Winter 8am – 4pm daily

2)   Accord at least ONE full day although two will be better, for a more relaxed walk to absorb and enjoy the stunning sights in the Lower Lakes (12 interlinked lakes) and Upper Lakes (4 interlinked lakes). The Lower Lakes has more variety and more hiking trails. 

3)   Try to arrive before 9am to avoid the masses and so that you can have lunch earlier inside the Park without having to waste time jostling and queuing for food at the various eateries.

4)    Buy a 2-day Pass if you wish to explore the Parks over 2 days as it will be slightly cheaper.  Your name will be entered onto the admission pass (180 kuna vs 110 kuna for a day Pass)

5)    Swimming is prohibited

6)   Make sure you find your way to the vantage point that offers the iconic view of the multi-tiered lakes and waterfalls. Ascend the trail next to the Great Waterfall (the largest in the Parks) and turn right when you reach the top and continue on your right along the road till you see the sign for the look out point on your right.  Many independent travellers, without guides, missed out on this vantage point which is not clearly marked on the map

The park has two entrances with large parking areas (fee 7 kuna/hour)

Entrance 1 is starting point for program A, B, C and K (which is the largest tour).

·         A (2-3h) is lower parts of national park, only walking

·         B (3-4h) is lower part of national park including sailing on lake Kozjak

·         C (4-6h) Walking, bus to upper parts of national park and sailing on lake Kozjak

·         K (6-8h) Walking around Whole national park

Entrance 2 is starting point for program E, H, F and K.

·         E (2-3h) Upper parts of national park, only walking

·         F (3-4h) Like B tour. Only different starting point

·         H (4-6h) Like C tour. Only different starting point

·         K (6-8h) Walking around Whole national park.

Park Admission Ticket for one day is 110 kuna per adult (Apr-June & Sep-Oct), 180 kuna 

(JulyAug) and 55 kuna (Jan-Mar & Nov-Dec). A 2-day Pass at 180 kuna is also available.

Guided tour is also available:

Half-day (up to 4 hours in either the Lower or Upper Lakes) : 900 kuna per person

Full day (5-6 hours in both the Lower and Upper Lakes ) : 1,300 kuna per person