Friday 29 May 2015

Twin Cities of Zagreb (Croatia) and Ljubljana (Slovenia), May 2015

Just some 140km separated the 2 cities of Ljubljana in Slovenia and Zagreb in Croatia

After watching marathon movies onboard SQ, I finally arrived in Munich for a 3-hour transit to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia.  The experience onboard the Croatia Airlines’  2-propeller small plane  was much better than expected although a little noisy.  The cabin was clean, neat and comfortable and they even served refreshment and snacks on the 1 hour 10-minute short flight!
I don't understand why some passengers had to collect their luggage on the tarmac while the rest of us could pick it up in the arrival hall...

 Zagreb International  Airport is small but clearing the customs was a breeze.  I took my own sweet time as it was a day of frequent waiting, in Changi Airport when the departure was delayed by >30 minutes, in Munich when the transfer was  delayed by 45minutes, and now in Zagreb having to wait almost 3 hours for my 3 friends to fly in via KLM.


I wanted to check out the ATM in Zagreb and tested it by withdrawing the local currency (kuna or HRK) using my DBS ATM card.  The rate was good, about S$1 : 5 kuna. The transaction fee is S$5 regardless of the amount withdrawn anywhere in the world as long as the ATM machine displays the Cirrus Plus logo.  This is better than and different from using the credit card to withdraw in local currency, which is considered a cash advance service and interest rate will be levied upon the amount withdrawn.  For urgent need of cash, utilizing your local bank ATM card to withdraw in the local currency is most convenient and efficient
You can withdraw local currency anywhere in the world with your personal ATM card  as long as the ATM machine displays the Cirrus Plus logo

 It took me just 10-odd minutes to check out the entire airport, including taking note of the car rental counter where I would be picking up the rental car later on. Mind you for such a small airport, I was surprised to see easily more than a dozen car rental counters! 


 I decided to exit the terminal building to recce the small park on the opposite side.  It was cool, about 21 degrees Celcius and I settled down to download the maps on my Garmin navigation system which usually takes about 5 minutes or longer to download the entire country’s map 1st time.  

At the small park opposite the airport
Happy that I could navigate to all the addresses which I had pre-entered into the system, I started to take some pictures of the surrounding areas and munched on some snacks.  Feeling bored, I decided to go back to the airport terminal to pick up the car first so that when my friends arrived we could zip off immediately.  It took a long time as the service was slow (there was just one customer ahead of me) and I also requested the staff to accompany me while I tested out the car and had it parked a distance away from the airport where the parking is free (just 5-6 minutes walk away).

I left my luggage in the boot and went back to the arrival lobby to wait for my friends only to discover that their flight had been delayed by 30 minutes.  Was really glad to see them after clearing  the customs.  By the time they arrived, there was a queue at the exchange bureau counter and it took probably about 30 minutes for all 3 of them to secure some kuna.  Though Croatia is part of the EU, Euros are not commonly accepted and at places where they are accepted, the exchange rate is much lower than that at the airport bureau exchange.  So do remember to buy your kuna at the airport!          
There are 2-3 exchange bureaus at the airport but the state bank offers the best exchange rate

Back at the car, we quickly headed for downtown Zagreb after loading up all the bags.  It took just 25 minutes to reach the city but it took us another 30 minutes to  look for the apartment as there were 2 apartments with the same name.  

What followed next was a heart stopping experience!  We paid 10 Euros to have our car parked  overnight in the compound of our apartment which was considered cheap in the city of Zagreb.  Parking lots are hard to come by in Zagreb and the parking rate, expensive.

The entrance to the carpark was a mere 2 metres or so from the road-cum-tram track and what aggravated the problem was the width of the gateway to the carpark which had just 1-2 cm clearance on both sides of the 2 wind mirrors.  We had to watch out for the oncoming trams and quickly reversed then steered the car through the gateway, which was an almost impossible task at the time having to struggle with a manual gear transmission vehicle which the driver had not driven one for eons! A pat on our driver’s shoulders for passing with flying colours despite him breaking out in cold sweat! 

The apartment building is old but well maintained and the interior, charming.  Our “driver” liked it so much that he was contemplating buying a unit there if available!
Thou

















The kitchen-cum-dining area
Creative use of the black board





We had a brief rest then headed off for a walk to the heart of the town which was a 10-15 minutes’ walk from our apartment.  As it was a public holiday (Labour Day), the entire downtown area was pretty deserted, with very few shops opened. 


The architecture of the buildings in downtown Zagreb is supposed to be of a mixture of Austro-Hungarian elements but somehow they  reminded me more strongly of Prague……

Our apartment is the dark brown building on the right 


                   
Zagreb Cathedral or Church of the Assumption                      Trg Josipa Jelacica

Opposite the Church of the Assumption
Trg Josipa Jelacica
The Stone Gate serves as a separation between the Upper and Lower town and is also a chapel.  The locals come here to light candles and pray to a painting of St Mary and Jesus which was saved from a fire in 1731.  


We did a leisurely stroll from the lower to the upper town and back to the lower town for dinner, starting from Trg Josipa Jelacica to the Cathedral of the Assumption or Zagreb Cathedral, the 13th century St Mark’s Church atop a hill, the small Jelacic Square with several museums and the lookout point next to the Zagreb Funicular which offers a peek at the city scape.   The blue funicular is the shortest in the world intended for public transport with railways of just 66 metres taking 64 seconds to complete one-way.  It is the first mean of public transport in Croatia, the oldest and the safest (accident free).



Colourful tiled roof of St Marks Church


We found the Croatian restaurant as recommended by the staff of the apartment and settled down for our 1st Croatian meal which we felt were quite similar to European food, and the taste was nothing outstanding or memorable.  While on the way back to the apartment, we bought some buns for breakfast as we intended to set off early for the 175km drive to Plitvice National Parks, the highlight of this trip.



It was slightly easier driving out of the carpark onto the main road and off we sped towards the crown jewel of Zagreb.

As I have a dedicated blog on Plitvice National Parks  (http://youwanu1.blogspot.sg/2015/05/a-pictorial-journey-through-stunning.html) , I will now fast forward to our 8th and 2nd last day (8th May) in Croatia, when we returned to Zagreb from Istria via Slovenia since Slovenia is almost equal distance from  Porec and to Zagreb (about 140km each).  After about 1.5 hours of highway driving, we arrived at the customs crossing,  but just metres away from the border crossing, we stopped at a gas station to buy a vignette sticker (15 Euros for 7 days) that is required of foreign vehicles entering Slovenia.  The fine is a hefty 300 to 800 kuna for vehicles found driving on the motorway without a valid vignette. Vignettes are sold at petrol stations in Slovenia and neighbouring countries and at branches of the national and foreign automobile clubs, at post offices in Slovenia and at some magazine stands.

The 7-day, 15 Euros vignette sticker
Our immediate impression of Ljubljana was that it is a very happening and vibrant metropolis compared to the Zagreb we saw on 1st May.     We crossed the Ljubljana River, took pictures of the key sites including The Triple Bridge (Tromostovje) and the Preseren Square and surrounding vicinity then sought help from the tourist information centre for recommendation on where to have lunch. 

Distant view of The Triple Bridge


Preseren Square, named after Croatia's most famous poet



We dined alfresco style not far from  Castle Hill. The  servings were huge.  I opted for soup and a vegetable pie while one of my friends was adventurous enough to try the traditional blood pudding which looks like a black sausage

Zagreb Castle on Castle Hill

The blood pudding which looks like a sausage
Open Market in the city square




On the opposite bank of the Ljubljana River which is behind the open market
1.5 hours later we were back in Zagreb.  This time round, we were in the heart of the city, just 2 blocks away from the eye-catching glass encased Hotel Dubrovnik.  The 2 gentlemen spent a long time looking for the apartment while we waited in the car by the side of a road.  As it turned out,  the signages are so tiny and inconspicuous!  If the owner had not waited for us and took over the wheels, we would never have guessed that the walkway is passable to car as there were more leg traffic than any car in sight!  Recalling the scary experience a week ago in Zagreb, we asked the owner to drive the car to his apartment while we walked the 50m or so  to the building.



The owner driving our car along this stretch which looks more like a pedestrian walkway than a road

Reversing into the small private car park

I like the spiral staircase and the cosy apartment which has 2 large sofa beds that are comfortable and very easy to set up in just 2 steps.  In particular I love the lacy curtain which looked like cut-out paintings when the lighting was right or good.



We did not linger long in the apartment this being the last night in Croatia.  Besides, we noticed that downtown Zagreb was pulsating with night life, so different from the 1st night we were there, which was almost void of human traffic.


While we liked alfresco dining, we did not like to be passive 2nd-hand smoker.  We took a long time choosing a place to have dinner and it was the gelato in a bar restaurant which won us over.  I had desserts for dinner, a cake and 2 scoops of gelato!
Our apartment is just 2 blocks away from Hotel Dubrovnik in downtown Zagreb


The rotating display of gelato caught our attention and we decided to have our dinner here with the ultimate objective of having the gelato after dinner


Though it was still quite early, we decided to return to the apartment after dinner as we had to shower and packed up for our journey to the airport the next day.


As our flights were in the late afternoon, we decided to have brunch before heading to the airport.  We set off for the lower town and were surprised to see numerous open markets selling flowers, fruits, vegetables, souvenirs and knick knacks.  There is a seafood market too (indoor) which looks very much like our wet market.  We bought some souvenirs and fruits and had burgers and salad for brunch.  






Soon it was time to bid farewell to Zagreb.  After bidding adios to the apartment owner, we had a smooth ride to the airport and spent a while waiting for the staff of the car rental company to attend to us.

We were to discover that the staff was not very honest.  While he scooted off to check on the vehicle without informing me,  I patiently waited for him  at the counter. By the time I decided to head back to the car to check out if he was there, he was in the process of getting out of the car.  He pointed out to me that we broke the front left fender that was partially hidden under the car.  We had no idea that the fender was loose, or in his words, broken.  Later, I learnt from my friend who happened to be in the line of vision of the car that the staff did not even look around to check the car except to check the gauge for the gas tank!  It was obviously a pre-condition which I wasn’t aware of at the time of collection.  We therefore believed that the staff could have used this pre-condition to claim compensation from unknowing customers who did not buy insurance with  them at the time of the car collection, or like us earned from our excess coverage and could either use it to repair the broken part or repeat the whole process again with other customers. Whatever was the truth, we were glad that we need not cough up a cent more except to sign some document to enable them to make the claims from the insurance company. The daily insurance coverage we paid was about 16 Euros a day!


This incident kind of tainted our otherwise happy holiday in Croatia.  The next time I collect a rental car, I will remember to peek underneath the car!

Yet another final episode took place while my 3 friends were at the airline counter to check-in their baggage. To their horror they were told that because they did internet check-in, their luggage cannot be tagged all the way to Singapore as they will be flying Croatia Airlines followed by Air France.  That meant that they had to collect their luggage at CDG in Paris and recheck-in their bags there.  This would have been fine if they have a long transit time in CDG but they had only 1.5 hours barring unforeseen delays!  And at CDG some 2 hours later, one of my friends’ luggage went missing-in-action!  He had to file a report while in Paris and double-checked again in Changi Airport to no avail.  Luckily it was dispatched to his home the following day!  Fortunately for me I did not do internet check-in and secondly, after my exhausting saga with SQ back home, they managed to resolve this issue of claiming and recheck-in the luggage in Frankfurt.  In fact I don’t believe in doing internet check-in as it doesn’t save one much time and you still need to check-in your luggage at the airport.  More important to me is the ability to select my seat….

Minus the hiccups, it was a nice whirlwind visit to the twin cities on one single trip/holiday.  For me that would suffice, as I am not a city folk but one who prefers exploring the outdoor and nature.
Note:

1)   Remember to dispose/sell your remaining kuna or HRK at the bureau exchange in the airport before you clear customs for departure as the kuna is not available or accepted outside of Croatia unless you don’t mind keeping some as souvenirs

2)  There is free airport wifi access but only for 15 minutes per equipment, ie mobile phone, tablet and PC.  I only discovered this while playing with my tablet and smartphone while killing time in the departure lounge after my 3 friends had left. On arrival day, I wasn’t aware of this possibility of getting extra time by using different devices and had to delay using the free 15-minute wifi till closer to my friends’ arrival time in case of urgent need for last minute communication!

3)   It is better to eat before you arrive at the airport as there’s only one cafeteria before customs and another one in the departure lounge area and they sell very basic food and beverage only.