Monday 19 October 2015

Japan Autumn Hike (Oct 2015)

                                   Japan Autumn Hike (1-10 Oct 2015)
We hiked in 3 prefectures (Tochigi, Gunma and Nagano) over 5 days
  


  














Autumn has always been my perennial favourite season for visiting any country with 4 seasons.  I love the splendours of the fall colours and the crisp, cool air that is not biting cold like in winter.  And the wonderful experience of walking under the colourful foliage and strolling on the leaf- littered nature trail is simply awesome.

But, like the sakura (cherry blossom) season, it is equally difficult to time  a trip to coincide with the season at its glorious best, whether it’s the endearing and bewitching cherry blossom or the   magnificent and vivid autumn hues.  Apart from doing my homework trying to learn from past trends and online tips, there’s nothing else that anyone could do except to pray and hope for the best. Once again, just like my Alaska trip a month earlier, God had been exceedingly good in granting us a delightful walking holiday through picturesque, painting-like landscape tainted in a myriad of colours.

Dusk arrives early in autumn and when we checked into our 1st ryokan in Nikko at around 5.30pm, we were just in time for the kaiseki dinner!  Kaiseki ryori 懷石料理 is analogous to western haute cuisine and it is customary for ryokan to serve kaiseki dinner using local and the freshest of seasonal ingredients.  It was a high-end ryokan with in-room onsen except that we found the hot spring too scalding hot to enjoy in the comfort and privacy of our own room. We retired early to bed after a long day of traveling, including flight delay, train ride and the long drive to Nikko.


Nikko 日光
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we loaded our bags into the car and drove a very short distance (2-3 minutes’ drive) to a public car park in close proximity to the start of a hiking trail next to Lake Yunoko .  We did well on day 1, completing 2 full trails and a smaller loop of a longer trail, clocking up 13km over 6 hours including frequent photo stops.  This is the easiest and most enjoyable hike on largely flat terrain and boardwalk.  We saw nature at its best, still waters framed by striking autumn foliage, raging rapids lined on both banks with swaying trees in brilliant gold, vibrant orange, auburn brown, crimson red, rosy pink and lush green.  The air was punctuated by the fragrant pine scent while the birds serenaded in their natural habitat. At the top of the highest falls, the Yutaki Falls湯滝, the splattering spray looked like shiny pearls bouncing off the body of silver water.  



We saw 2 more waterfalls, the Kotaki Falls and the Ryuzu Falls 竜頭ノ滝where the hiking trail ends  There were numerous strategically placed wooden bridges, observatories, picnic-rest stops and rest rooms. The dense foliage provides ample shade for hikers except at Senjogahara Plateau 戦場ヶ原, a vast expanse of moorland most spectacular in November when the tall, white shimmering pampas grass flanks the entire boardwalk that cuts through the moorland.  In October, the short russet coloured grass blankets the entire plain like a sea of scintillating gold. 


Ryuzu Falls 竜頭ノ滝
Senjogahara 戦場ヶ原
We took the eco friendly hybrid bus back to the car park to collect our car.  It’s the first time I had to pay for this service which cost us about S$18 each for a <30-minute ride.  Should have shared a cab instead!  I normally buy the All Nikko Pass (4,520 JPY) which includes a round-trip Tobu train ride from/to Asakusa and unlimited rides on the hybrid bus if I were not driving in Japan. However this pass is not ideal if you wish to spend more time in Nikko as it is only valid over 4 consecutive days which actually catered for just 2 days of hiking or exploring Nikko minus the travelling time to and from Nikko (2 separate days).  We spent our 2nd night (Saturday) at a ryokan by the shore of  Lake Chuzenji (中禅寺湖)It should be noted that weekend rates at ryokan are generally 15%-30% more expensive and hence the need for us to downgrade to a cheaper option.

As our ryokan was a short 3- minute drive to the famous Kegon Falls 華厳の滝, after checking out the next morning, we decided to make a lightning visit to admire it from the free vantage look-out point.  Impromptu, we decided to pay and take the elevator 100m down to the viewing platform and were greeted by a fabulous rainbow that arched perfectly across the plunging falls.  What a wonderful sight to behold! The 7 colours of the rainbow (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet) were clear, intense and distinct. It was still framing the waterfalls when we left to return to our rental car.
 Kegon Falls 華厳の滝


We next continued to Kinugawa 鬼怒川, still within Nikko.  Right weather and lighting truly dictate the sights and experience of one’s visit.  This was attested to in Ryuoko Gorge 龍王峡.  It was at most a week’s difference in terms of the period (1st week vs 2nd week Oct) I last visited the same gorge a few years back. But whereas the waters appeared a deep emerald green, the trees a lush luxuriant green and the climate, cool and refreshing on my previous trip, this time round, it was unusually hot and glaring, and the waters murky.  To aggravate the less than ideal situation, the most enjoyable forest trail on the opposite side of the gorge was closed for repair due to the widespread landslides as a result of the September 2015 massive flooding in Kinugawa!  We did a short <4km hike and decided to drive back to Ryuzu Falls to attempt the many other artery trails, which turned out to be a wise move.  The difference of one night and a drop in temperature deepened the autumn hues and the penetrating sunlight seemed to torch the foliage into an enchanting and shimmering gold canopy. We took our time to relish nature’s beauty without having to worry about catching the last bus back…..


Oze 尾瀬
Ozegahara 尾瀬ケ原 is a renown wetland area of lakes and marshes that straddle parts of Gunma, Fukushima and Niigata.  However, outside of Japan, Oze National Park is not much known to foreigners.  It was therefore not surprising that we were the only 3 foreigners hiking in this region.  The majority of hikers who visit Oze are seasoned and serious hikers who would camp overnight in the reserve or put up in 1 of only 3 very basic lodges located within the National Park.  As it is a protected NP, motor cars are required to park at designated lots some 10-15 minutes’ drive away from the start of the hiking trails and then transfer to the eco friendly shuttle bus (930JPY 1-way).  The logistics of finding your way to the nature trail via the shuttle bus can be daunting if you do not speak any Japanese language at all.  My kindergarten level Japanese helped somewhat. We stayed at the better lodge located just metres inside the NP, managed by 3 seniors in their 70s.  We were fortunate to be driven to the bus pick-up point and were also ferried back to the lodge thanks to the kind assistance of the lodge owner who left instruction with the shuttle bus driver to fetch us back to the lodge after our hike.  The bus leaves punctually every half-hourly from 8am – 4.30pm



I did not expect to have time to do 2 hikes in Oze but as we arrived early at the lodge (before noon), we excitedly set off for a 11km round trip (4 hours including photo stops) hike on the western section of the NP. The trail map provides very clear information on the distance and time required to complete each trail and we estimated that we could only finish hiking through half of the vast marshland in view of the short daylight hours.



The 1st section (3.3km) was easy, going downhill, but expectantly,  was tough on the return leg ascending endless steps back to the starting point.  I regret removing my trekking pole from my luggage while packing as I had not anticipated steep ascent in Oze, this being my 1st visit.  While the trails we attempted in Nikko were largely on flat ground, Oze presents the hikers with more challenging hilly terrain and denser forest canopy.

Much effort and resources had been put to protecting the NP from soil erosion while allowing hikers to enjoy the unspoilt majesty.  >90% of the trail are boardwalk with timber slats placed at regular intervals to prevent hikers from falling during the wet season.  It would not have been possible for hikers to walk across the vast expanse of wetland if not for the raised wooden platform that were erected above the wetland.  While the marsh land was awashed in golden hues, the forest that lined the edge of the moorland was splashed in a riot of autumn colours.  Some visitors stopped for a picnic at the designated rest area with table and benches while others just languished on the board walk absorbing the tantalising sights.


We were famished when we returned to the lodge and were happy to have an early dinner at 6pm.  After dinner, we had a good time chatting in my “half past 6” Japanese language with the staff and owner at the lodge who, to our delight, offered us a complimentary giant pear for dessert.  Another bonus was the privilege to dip in the onsen which was hidden from public view by folding wooden planks of wood.  Pleasant surprises and rewards from interacting with the host and staff!

We set off at 7am the next morning after a full breakfast for the eastern section of Oze NP.  We drove <15 minutes to the car park in Oshimizu 大清水 and transferred by the shuttle bus (700JPY 1-way, 10 minutes’ drive) to the start of another hiking trail in Ichinoze 一ノ瀬


This 2nd trail in Oze was a lot tougher.  It was a relentless uphill ascent of 1hr 20min (1-way).  We met many octogenarians on the difficult uphill section and they really put many of us younger folks to shame with their nimble and spritely gait.
These ladies are all in their 80s!
The breathtaking spectacle of vibrant tints that enveloped us along the way momentarily soothed away the aches from the strenuous climb.  We had a brief pee stop and quickly continued our way to our intended destination at the visitor-centre-cum-eatery some 1.4km away.  It was the prettiest sight to behold on this short stretch;  boardwalk that hugs a lake and which leads to a forest aflamed with incredulous colours before ending at the visitor centre by the edge of the lake.  A group of elderly visitors were immersed in a world of their own capturing the arresting sights in sketching and painting.  






Some younger hikers took time to sit by the edge of the board walk simply gazing at the far yonder.  We ambled through the brightly coloured forest, lingered at a small jetty for more photo stops before arriving at the visitor centre.  A dozen or more hikers were resting by the lake while chattering and nibbling on their food.  


As we had a long drive to Karuizawa in Nagano Prefecture, we had a quick 10-minute lunch fix (soba/noodles) before heading back to the trail head to await the shuttle bus to take us to the car park.  What a hurried 2-hour,  7.6km hike on hilly terrain!

Karuizawa 軽井沢


It was a long drive because of the long and winding mountain road.  It took us >3 hours to cover just 152km before we reached the sprawling Karuizawa Prince Hotels & Resorts which sits on 1,250 acres of land.  There are 5 different types of accommodation (3 hotels, cottages and villas) offering 558 rooms that cater to 1,420 occupants.  6 golf courses, a ski resort, 5 restaurants, 5 banquet-meeting halls,  tennis courts, spa, forest hot spring, a fitness centre, bicycle rental, nature activities and a supermarket-cum-souvenir shop together service the needs of all staying at the highly popular resort.  All guests who drive are required to park their cars at 2 designated areas and a 24-hour buggy system fetches guests to any point within the sprawling grounds.
 

That evening, we decided to have Italian cuisine for a change.  I am most impressed with the Japanese Italian and Japanese French cuisine which I personally think are often better than even the many high end Italian restaurants found in Singapore.  I attribute it to the fresh quality ingredients but most importantly, the dedication and soulful approach that the Japanese pride themselves in whatever they lay hands on to do.   It was a very satisfying dinner and a good change from the many kiseki feastings.

Our primary objective in Karuizawa 軽井沢was to visit the famous Shiraito Waterfalls 白糸ノ滝 but for the 1st time I found the usually clear and prominent road signage in Japan very  misleading.  We had to try out all 3 road options before finding the correct one that leads to the waterfall.  And the car’s GPS navigation system is not of much help here since the waterfall is located next to a highway.  Anyway, until the signage has been changed, it is best to ignore the road sign that points to Shiraito Waterfalls but instead head for the road that leads to the highway.  The 400JPY toll is tantamount to the entrance fee for visiting the small park and waterfalls.

We were lucky to arrive early (before 9am)  before hordes of Japanese tourists descended on it just as we were leaving.  Fall arrives late in Karuizawa and hence a better time to witness the curtain of cascading falls amidst an exploding autumn colours is in end Oct-early November.  After a brief visit, we rushed off to our final hiking destination in the kiso valley in the southwestern part of Nagano. 

Kiso Valley 木曽
The 7.7km Nakasendo Walking Trail 中山道 that connects 2 famous old post towns (juku) of Tsumago 妻籠宿(the best preserved and most authentic post-town in Japan) and Magome 籠宿is part of the ancient 70km trade route that runs alongside the mountains of the Central Alps.  It was an important means of commerce in the Edo period and todate, only 3 of the 69 post towns have been preserved namely Tsumago, Magome and Narai. 
Magome 籠宿




Buildings in the village were made of cedar wood that have aged magnificently over time.  The architecture is impeccable and everything looks so neat and well designed that they look more like an outdoor museum

On my 1st hike 4 years ago, we did the comparatively more difficult route from Tsumago to Magome as it involved overcoming some slopes.  We started from our ryokan in Tsumago and took a shuttle bus back from Magome.  This time round, I decided to do the reverse route and stayed in Magome instead.  It was a wise decision on hind sight as we had less time to traverse the old Samurai route and taking the easier route helped shaved off precious minutes from the hike which totalled 8.6km from point to point (2hrs 10 minutes). 
Start of the hiking trail from Magome to Tsumago


Traditional rest house used during the Edo period, famously known for the samurai warriors


 We still had time to explore Tsumago before booking a taxi for the <30-minute drive back to Magome (3,200JPY) since the last bus left at 4.41pm

On my previous trip, I stayed in this ryokan in Tsumago, a luxury compared to Magome Chaya
The ryokan where we stayed belongs to a Filippino lady married to a Japanese.  We learnt that owners of the buildings in the village are not allowed to sell their properties but are required to pass it down from generation to generation.  Magome Chaya 馬籠茶屋has 2 separate buildings whereby one serves as accommodation and the other across the street, the dining hall.  It was well patronised when we were there possibly because of the ease of communicating in English with the host, which is a rarity in the remote mountainous region of Japan. Wifi is also available in the common area, including the dining hall.  The rooms are spartan and you have to help yourself to laying the futon mattress.   As it was too late/dark to take any decent picture of Magome, we decided to arise early the next morning to snap some shots of the village void of the swarming tourists, both Japanese and Westerners. 
Top pix is the building which houses the rooms while across the street is the dining hall
We slept well despite it being the cheapest accommodation todate and were ready to hit the road before 7am.  After some 15-20 minutes’ driving, we stopped by a café for breakfast, it being the only one opened before 8am.  As the café does not serve wholesome breakfast other than eggs and bread, we decided to buy some sandwiches and pastries from the convenience store opposite, after obtaining approval from the café owner.

The coffee was very good and the lady proprietor was so pleased with our company that apart from giving us her handcrafted toothpick holders as souvenirs, she also demonstrated the art of paper folding (origami)!  We ended up buying more souvenirs from her.  A very clever marketing strategy indeed, of giving and demonstrating which leads to buying! 


Tokyo
The drive back to Tachikawa 立川in Western Tokyo was the longest drive on this trip, totalling 282km with a toll fee of 5,300JPY!  I don’t normally drive on the national expressway because of the high toll fees.  Besides, you will miss out on the longer but more scenic routes that are usually toll free but due to our ambitious journey, we had to pay the price for covering more places within the span of 7 driving days.
We actually managed to arrive early for lunch (reservation at 12.30pm) at Kurochaya 黑茶屋, a charming place set in the woods and even had time for a short stroll around the premises before driving back to the car rental company some 20 minutes away.  And to round it off, we also managed to catch the special rapid chuo line (中央特急) to ueno, which took just 45 minutes!




Interesting shoe locker
The next 2 nights, I chose to stay at a serviced apartment in Ueno because of the most economical and direct transport to Narita airport (Keisei Line at 1,030JPY) apart from the decent room cost.  This is a route not commonly known or taken by foreigners, the majority of whom would take the more popular airport limousine express service (coach ride at 3,500JPY) that stops at selected hotels. 

Back to the busy, noisy and glitzy urban Tokyo,  just 1.5 days of frequent feasting quickly piled back more than the weight we lost in the past week.  And my check-in luggage ballooned to 31.2kg with the many goodies that I hauled from my favourite holiday destination.
Extremely good value set comprising 12 pieces of sushi, a chawan mushi, miso soup, sorbet and macha tea
Tokyo Tower located just metres away from the michelin-star Tofuya 



I never seem to get tired of visiting this charming country richly endowed with  awesome scenery, great weather, a clean and safe haven, superb efficiency in all things beyond fault, exquisite cuisine that are both delicious and a sight to behold and to cap it all, the wonderful experience of soaking in the many and different types natural hot springs at the beginning and end of each day……..