Japan Autumn Hike (1-10 Oct 2015)
We hiked in 3 prefectures (Tochigi, Gunma and Nagano) over 5 days |
Autumn has always been my perennial favourite season
for visiting any country with 4 seasons.
I love the splendours of the fall colours and the crisp, cool air that
is not biting cold like in winter. And
the wonderful experience of walking under the colourful foliage and strolling
on the leaf- littered nature trail is simply awesome.
But, like the sakura (cherry blossom) season, it is
equally difficult to time a trip to
coincide with the season at its glorious best, whether it’s the endearing and
bewitching cherry blossom or the magnificent and vivid autumn hues. Apart from doing my homework trying to learn
from past trends and online tips, there’s nothing else that anyone could do
except to pray and hope for the best. Once again, just like my Alaska trip a
month earlier, God had been exceedingly good in granting us a delightful
walking holiday through picturesque, painting-like landscape tainted in a
myriad of colours.
Dusk arrives early in autumn and when we checked into
our 1st ryokan in Nikko at around 5.30pm, we were just in time for
the kaiseki dinner! Kaiseki ryori 懷石料理 is analogous to western haute cuisine and it is customary for ryokan to serve kaiseki dinner using local and the freshest of seasonal ingredients. It was a high-end
ryokan with in-room onsen except that we found the hot spring too scalding hot
to enjoy in the comfort and privacy of our own room. We retired early to bed
after a long day of traveling, including flight delay, train ride and the long
drive to Nikko.
Nikko
日光
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we loaded
our bags into the car and drove a very short distance (2-3 minutes’ drive) to a
public car park in close proximity to the start of a hiking trail next to Lake
Yunoko 湯ノ 湖. We did well on day 1, completing 2 full
trails and a smaller loop of a longer trail, clocking up 13km over 6 hours
including frequent photo stops. This is
the easiest and most enjoyable hike on largely flat terrain and boardwalk. We saw nature at its best, still waters
framed by striking autumn foliage, raging rapids lined on both banks with
swaying trees in brilliant gold, vibrant orange, auburn brown, crimson red,
rosy pink and lush green. The air was
punctuated by the fragrant pine scent while the birds serenaded in their
natural habitat. At the top of the highest falls, the Yutaki Falls湯滝, the splattering
spray looked like shiny pearls bouncing off the body of silver water.
We saw 2 more waterfalls, the Kotaki Falls 小滝and the Ryuzu
Falls 竜頭ノ滝where the hiking
trail ends。 There were numerous
strategically placed wooden bridges, observatories, picnic-rest stops and rest
rooms. The dense foliage provides ample shade for hikers except at Senjogahara
Plateau 戦場ヶ原, a vast expanse of moorland most spectacular in November when the tall,
white shimmering pampas grass flanks the entire boardwalk that cuts through the
moorland. In October, the short russet
coloured grass blankets the entire plain like a sea of scintillating gold.
Ryuzu Falls 竜頭ノ滝 |
We took the eco friendly hybrid bus back to the car park
to collect our car. It’s the first time
I had to pay for this service which cost us about S$18 each for a <30-minute
ride. Should have shared a cab instead! I normally buy the All Nikko Pass (4,520 JPY)
which includes a round-trip Tobu train ride from/to Asakusa and unlimited rides
on the hybrid bus if I were not driving in Japan. However this pass is not
ideal if you wish to spend more time in Nikko as it is only valid over 4
consecutive days which actually catered for just 2 days of hiking or exploring
Nikko minus the travelling time to and from Nikko (2 separate days). We spent our 2nd night (Saturday)
at a ryokan by the shore of Lake
Chuzenji (中禅寺湖)It should be noted that weekend rates at ryokan are
generally 15%-30% more expensive and hence the need for us to downgrade to a
cheaper option.
As our ryokan was a short 3- minute drive to the
famous Kegon Falls 華厳の滝, after checking out the next morning, we decided to
make a lightning visit to admire it from the free vantage look-out point. Impromptu, we decided to pay and take the
elevator 100m down to the viewing platform and were greeted by a fabulous
rainbow that arched perfectly across the plunging falls. What a wonderful sight to behold! The 7
colours of the rainbow (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet)
were clear, intense and distinct. It was still framing the waterfalls when we
left to return to our rental car.
We next continued to Kinugawa 鬼怒川, still within Nikko.
Right weather and lighting truly dictate the sights and experience of
one’s visit. This was attested to in
Ryuoko Gorge 龍王峡. It was at
most a week’s difference in terms of the period (1st week vs 2nd
week Oct) I last visited the same gorge a few years back. But whereas the
waters appeared a deep emerald green, the trees a lush luxuriant green and the
climate, cool and refreshing on my previous trip, this time round, it was
unusually hot and glaring, and the waters murky. To aggravate the less than ideal situation,
the most enjoyable forest trail on the opposite side of the gorge was closed
for repair due to the widespread landslides as a result of the September 2015
massive flooding in Kinugawa! We did a
short <4km hike and decided to drive back to Ryuzu Falls to attempt the many
other artery trails, which turned out to be a wise move. The difference of one night and a drop in
temperature deepened the autumn hues and the penetrating sunlight seemed to
torch the foliage into an enchanting and shimmering gold canopy. We took our
time to relish nature’s beauty without having to worry about catching the last
bus back…..
Oze 尾瀬
Oze 尾瀬
Ozegahara 尾瀬ケ原 is a renown wetland area of lakes and marshes that
straddle parts of Gunma, Fukushima and Niigata. However, outside of Japan, Oze National Park
is not much known to foreigners. It was
therefore not surprising that we were the only 3 foreigners hiking in this
region. The majority of hikers who visit
Oze are seasoned and serious hikers who would camp overnight in the reserve or
put up in 1 of only 3 very basic lodges located within the National Park. As it is a protected NP, motor cars are
required to park at designated lots some 10-15 minutes’ drive away from the
start of the hiking trails and then transfer to the eco friendly shuttle bus
(930JPY 1-way). The logistics of finding
your way to the nature trail via the shuttle bus can be daunting if you do not
speak any Japanese language at all. My
kindergarten level Japanese helped somewhat. We stayed at the better lodge
located just metres inside the NP, managed by 3 seniors in their 70s. We were fortunate to be driven to the bus
pick-up point and were also ferried back to the lodge thanks to the kind
assistance of the lodge owner who left instruction with the shuttle bus driver
to fetch us back to the lodge after our hike.
The bus leaves punctually every half-hourly from 8am – 4.30pm
I did not expect to have time to do 2 hikes in Oze but
as we arrived early at the lodge (before noon), we excitedly set off for a 11km
round trip (4 hours including photo stops) hike on the western section of the
NP. The trail map provides very clear information on the distance and time
required to complete each trail and we estimated that we could only finish
hiking through half of the vast marshland in view of the short daylight hours.
The 1st section (3.3km) was easy, going
downhill, but expectantly, was tough on
the return leg ascending endless steps back to the starting point. I regret removing my trekking pole from my
luggage while packing as I had not anticipated steep ascent in Oze, this being
my 1st visit. While the
trails we attempted in Nikko were largely on flat ground, Oze presents the
hikers with more challenging hilly terrain and denser forest canopy.
Much effort and resources had been put to protecting
the NP from soil erosion while allowing hikers to enjoy the unspoilt majesty. >90% of the trail are boardwalk with timber slats placed at regular
intervals to prevent hikers from falling during the wet season. It would not have been possible for hikers to
walk across the vast expanse of wetland if not for the raised wooden platform
that were erected above the wetland.
While the marsh land was awashed in golden hues, the forest that lined
the edge of the moorland was splashed in a riot of autumn colours. Some visitors stopped for a picnic at the
designated rest area with table and benches while others just languished on the
board walk absorbing the tantalising sights.
We were famished when we returned to the lodge and were happy to have an early dinner at 6pm. After
dinner, we had a good time chatting in my “half past 6” Japanese language with
the staff and owner at the lodge who, to our delight, offered us a
complimentary giant pear for dessert.
Another bonus was the privilege to dip in the onsen which was hidden
from public view by folding wooden planks of wood. Pleasant surprises and rewards from
interacting with the host and staff!
We set off at 7am the next morning after a full
breakfast for the eastern section of Oze NP.
We drove <15 minutes to the car park in Oshimizu 大清水 and transferred by the shuttle bus (700JPY 1-way, 10
minutes’ drive) to the start of another hiking trail in Ichinoze 一ノ瀬
This 2nd trail in Oze was a lot tougher. It was a relentless uphill ascent of 1hr 20min (1-way). We met many octogenarians on the difficult uphill section and they really put many of us younger folks to shame with their nimble and spritely gait.
This 2nd trail in Oze was a lot tougher. It was a relentless uphill ascent of 1hr 20min (1-way). We met many octogenarians on the difficult uphill section and they really put many of us younger folks to shame with their nimble and spritely gait.
The breathtaking spectacle of vibrant tints that enveloped us along the way
momentarily soothed away the aches from the strenuous climb. We had a brief pee stop and quickly continued
our way to our intended destination at the visitor-centre-cum-eatery some 1.4km
away. It was the prettiest sight to
behold on this short stretch; boardwalk
that hugs a lake and which leads to a forest aflamed with incredulous colours
before ending at the visitor centre by the edge of the lake. A group of elderly visitors were immersed in
a world of their own capturing the arresting sights in sketching and
painting.
Some younger hikers took time to sit by the edge of the board walk simply gazing at the far yonder. We ambled through the brightly coloured forest, lingered at a small jetty for more photo stops before arriving at the visitor centre. A dozen or more hikers were resting by the lake while chattering and nibbling on their food.
As we had a long drive to Karuizawa in Nagano Prefecture, we had a quick 10-minute lunch fix (soba/noodles) before heading back to the trail head to await the shuttle bus to take us to the car park. What a hurried 2-hour, 7.6km hike on hilly terrain!
Some younger hikers took time to sit by the edge of the board walk simply gazing at the far yonder. We ambled through the brightly coloured forest, lingered at a small jetty for more photo stops before arriving at the visitor centre. A dozen or more hikers were resting by the lake while chattering and nibbling on their food.
As we had a long drive to Karuizawa in Nagano Prefecture, we had a quick 10-minute lunch fix (soba/noodles) before heading back to the trail head to await the shuttle bus to take us to the car park. What a hurried 2-hour, 7.6km hike on hilly terrain!
It was a long drive because of the long and winding mountain road. It took us >3 hours to cover just 152km
before we reached the sprawling Karuizawa Prince Hotels & Resorts which
sits on 1,250 acres of land. There are 5
different types of accommodation (3 hotels, cottages and villas) offering 558
rooms that cater to 1,420 occupants. 6
golf courses, a ski resort, 5 restaurants, 5 banquet-meeting halls, tennis courts, spa, forest hot spring, a
fitness centre, bicycle rental, nature activities and a supermarket-cum-souvenir
shop together service the needs of all staying at the highly popular
resort. All guests who drive are
required to park their cars at 2 designated areas and a 24-hour buggy system
fetches guests to any point within the sprawling grounds.
That evening, we decided to have Italian cuisine for a change. I am most impressed with the Japanese Italian
and Japanese French cuisine which I personally think are often better than even
the many high end Italian restaurants found in Singapore. I attribute it to the fresh quality ingredients
but most importantly, the dedication and soulful approach that the Japanese
pride themselves in whatever they lay hands on to do. It was
a very satisfying dinner and a good change from the many kiseki feastings.
Our primary objective in Karuizawa 軽井沢was to visit the famous Shiraito Waterfalls 白糸ノ滝 but for the 1st time、 I found the usually clear and
prominent road signage in Japan very
misleading. We had to try out all
3 road options before finding the correct one that leads to the waterfall. And the car’s GPS navigation system is not of
much help here since the waterfall is located next to a highway. Anyway, until the signage has been changed,
it is best to ignore the road sign that points to Shiraito Waterfalls but
instead head for the road that leads to the highway. The 400JPY toll is tantamount to the entrance fee for visiting the small park and waterfalls.
We were lucky to arrive early (before 9am) before hordes of Japanese tourists descended
on it just as we were leaving. Fall arrives late in Karuizawa and hence a better time to witness the curtain of cascading
falls amidst an exploding autumn colours is in end Oct-early November. After a brief visit, we rushed off to our
final hiking destination in the kiso valley in the southwestern part of
Nagano.
Kiso Valley 木曽谷
The 7.7km Nakasendo Walking Trail 中山道 that connects 2 famous old post towns (juku) of
Tsumago 妻籠宿(the best preserved and most authentic post-town in
Japan) and Magome 馬籠宿is part of the ancient 70km trade route that runs
alongside the mountains of the Central Alps.
It was an important means of commerce in the Edo period and todate, only
3 of the 69 post towns have been preserved namely Tsumago, Magome and
Narai.
Magome 馬籠宿 |
Buildings in the village were made of cedar wood that
have aged magnificently over time. The
architecture is impeccable and everything looks so neat and well designed that
they look more like an outdoor museum
On my 1st hike 4 years ago, we did the
comparatively more difficult route from Tsumago to Magome as it involved overcoming some slopes. We started from our ryokan in
Tsumago and took a shuttle bus back from Magome. This time round, I decided to do the reverse
route and stayed in Magome instead. It
was a wise decision on hind sight as we had less time to traverse the old
Samurai route and taking the easier route helped shaved off precious minutes
from the hike which totalled 8.6km from point to point (2hrs 10 minutes).
We still had time to explore Tsumago before booking a taxi for the <30-minute drive back to Magome (3,200JPY) since the last bus left at 4.41pm
Start of the hiking trail from Magome to Tsumago |
Traditional rest house used during the Edo period, famously known for the samurai warriors |
We still had time to explore Tsumago before booking a taxi for the <30-minute drive back to Magome (3,200JPY) since the last bus left at 4.41pm
On my previous trip, I stayed in this ryokan in Tsumago, a luxury compared to Magome Chaya |
The ryokan where we stayed belongs to a Filippino lady
married to a Japanese. We learnt that
owners of the buildings in the village are not allowed to sell their properties
but are required to pass it down from generation to generation. Magome Chaya 馬籠茶屋has
2 separate buildings whereby one serves as accommodation and the other across
the street, the dining hall. It was well
patronised when we were there possibly because of the ease of communicating in
English with the host, which is a rarity in the remote mountainous region of
Japan. Wifi is also available in the common area, including the dining
hall. The rooms are spartan and you have
to help yourself to laying the futon mattress.
As it was too late/dark to take any decent picture of Magome, we decided
to arise early the next morning to snap some shots of the village void of the
swarming tourists, both Japanese and Westerners.
We slept well despite it being the cheapest
accommodation todate and were ready to hit the road before 7am. After some 15-20 minutes’ driving, we stopped
by a café for breakfast, it being the only one opened before 8am. As the café does not serve wholesome
breakfast other than eggs and bread, we decided to buy some sandwiches and
pastries from the convenience store opposite, after obtaining approval from the
café owner.
Top pix is the building which houses the rooms while across the street is the dining hall |
The coffee was very good and the lady proprietor was
so pleased with our company that apart from giving us her handcrafted toothpick
holders as souvenirs, she also demonstrated the art of paper folding
(origami)! We ended up buying more
souvenirs from her. A very clever
marketing strategy indeed, of giving and demonstrating which leads to
buying!
Tokyo
The drive back to Tachikawa 立川in
Western Tokyo was the longest drive on this trip, totalling 282km with a toll
fee of 5,300JPY! I don’t normally drive
on the national expressway because of the high toll fees. Besides, you will miss out on the longer but
more scenic routes that are usually toll free but due to our ambitious journey,
we had to pay the price for covering more places within the span of 7 driving
days.
We actually managed to arrive early for lunch
(reservation at 12.30pm) at Kurochaya 黑茶屋, a charming place
set in the woods and even had time for a short stroll around the premises
before driving back to the car rental company some 20 minutes away. And to round it off, we also managed to catch
the special rapid chuo line (中央特急) to ueno, which
took just 45 minutes!
The next 2 nights, I chose to stay at a serviced
apartment in Ueno because of the most economical and direct transport to Narita
airport (Keisei Line at 1,030JPY) apart from the decent room cost. This is a route not commonly known or taken
by foreigners, the majority of whom would take the more popular airport
limousine express service (coach ride at 3,500JPY) that stops at selected
hotels.
Back to the busy, noisy and glitzy urban Tokyo, just 1.5 days of frequent feasting quickly piled
back more than the weight we lost in the past week. And my check-in luggage ballooned to 31.2kg
with the many goodies that I hauled from my favourite holiday destination.
Extremely good value set comprising 12 pieces of sushi, a chawan mushi, miso soup, sorbet and macha tea |
Tokyo Tower located just metres away from the michelin-star Tofuya |
I never seem to get tired of visiting this charming
country richly endowed with awesome
scenery, great weather, a clean and safe haven, superb efficiency in all things
beyond fault, exquisite cuisine that are both delicious and a sight to behold
and to cap it all, the wonderful experience of soaking in the many and
different types natural hot springs at the beginning and end of each day……..
View my photo albums on Japan Autumn Hike by clicking the link below:
Album 1 of 2
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Album 2 of 2